Showing posts with label Bhutan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bhutan. Show all posts

27 January 2011

Lillie Henrietta Ibser Asmus


Tomorrow marks the 8th anniversary of my grandmother's death. Lillie Henrietta Ibser was born the oldest daughter to an immigrant Czech (Bohemian) family on 4 March 1906. She died of old age in Boulder, Colorado, USA, on 28 January 2003. Lillie was a remarkable woman, and I fear this post, written in haste to mark the anniversary, won't do her justice.

A little family history:
Henry Ibser, my grandmother's father, was an orphan who was raised by the family Novak in Prague. The family is believed to have been grocers because one of his tasks was to wash radishes in the Moldau River and hurry home before the radishes freezed. He had no shoes, so he would wrap his feet in newspapers. The Novaks also had a son named Yindrik (Henry). When his adoptive mother was dying, she called for Yindrik, and they brought her biological son, but she was calling for the adopted son, and this would have been the last time she could have told him who he was. Henry, who played the violin quite well, emigrated to the United States at the age of 14. 
Lillie Vitek went to a convent school in Prague. She came to the United States with her aunt (whose married name was Masar) during her teens, much to the ire of the rest of her family, who cut off all contact.  She married and gave birth to my grandmother, her first child, when she was 18.
Grandma said that when she was a little girl, one day she and her mother were walking by a convent, and her mother said, “I would rather you were six feet under than in a place like that.”
Grandma’s mother and father met when he attended a church where she was singing and, the story goes, she winked at him. Henry made work first as an itinerant Methodist preacher and then as an encyclopedia salesman.
Though he preached the gospel, Henry Ibser was quite grim. His children (six of them: Lillie, Henry, Gertrude, Ruth, Rose, and Homer) were not allowed to play games, dance, or engage in any other "frivolity." Thus, my grandmother grew up in a cheerless home of literally all work and no play. Even learning the violin was a forced task.
Grandma broke with her family when, as a young lady, she argued with her father about African Americans. Again, even though he preached the gospel, Henry Ibser was a hateful bigot. Grandmother did not agree with his bigotry, and after an argument over race, she was asked to leave and never come back.
She remained closest with her youngest brother, Homer Ibser. Homer crossed the family by marrying a Japanese woman, so in a way, they became orphans unto themselves.
My grandmother attended college in Lincoln, Nebraska. Her desire was to study biology, but her father felt that was not appropriate for a young woman, so she compromised and studied botany and fine art. For most of her life, Lillie was an accomplished artist using block prints as her preferred medium.
Lillie met my grandfather, Ernest Asmus, when she was about 29 years old. He was a farm boy; she, a city girl. He was ready for adventure, and proposed a honeymoon trip of bicycling through Europe. This was in 1935, shortly before the beginning of WWII there. Lillie had never ridden a bicycle before, but they did it — took a ship to Liverpool, England, outfitted their two bicycles, and began a three-month ride.
This is a story I wish I could've gotten down on paper before Grandma died. Quite an odyssey it must have been! I just have a couple of anecdotes that come to mind quite often. First, as they were bicycling through France, they stopped at a farm and asked to fill their water bottles. With water. The farm family was aghast — "Water? Why would you want to drink water? We have wine or milk." So, they drank milk (remember, Lillie grew up in a strict Methodist household). Another anecdote: My grandfather and grandmother spent some time camped outside a Dutch family's house, which was on a dike. During WWII, that dike was bombed and destroyed. The family contacted my grandparents, who were able to send them much-needed supplies. My aunt still receives letters and small gifts from that family all these years on.
The most remarkable thing about my grandmother, I think, is her recovery from a stroke at 58 and her accompanying spirit of adventure. She had a stroke after losing a job at the University of Colorado in 1964, and her left side, speech, and ability to hand-write were all affected. But she powered through, spending much time after this typing letters and walking everywhere she could.
After her stroke, my grandmother found work as a housekeeper and caretaker for a fairly well-known cellist, Cornelius Van Vliet, who lived in Boulder, Colorado. When he died, Mr. Van Vliet left my grandmother $10,000, which in the early 1970s was an incredible amount of money. Grandma was able to pay off the mortgage on her house and use the rest of the money for travel, as called for in the bequest.
Lillie's first trip was to Bhutan in 1975. She was a member of the first American tourist party allowed into the country, and made the trek around the mountain kingdom with renowned mountaineer Tenzing Norgay. I had the pleasure of talking with her many times about this trip, and an article I wrote about the adventure was published in the 28 June 1992 issue of the Boulder Daily Camera. I also wrote about the trip in an earlier blog post.
Grandma completed another trek in the Scottish Hebrides in 1980 and took other trips, mostly to the UK. More stories I wish I could have recorded!
I lived with my grandmother when I was seven and again when I was 17, when I moved to Colorado from California to finish high school. Without my grandmother's influence on my life, I'm not sure where I would be today.
I helped take care of my grandmother during the last years of her life. The hardest part wasn't that she was nearly blind or nearly deaf or nearly crippled with arthritis — it was that she no longer knew who I was. Instead, I was "that girl who lives in the back" (the back bedroom), and she did not like me very much.
When it became too hard for my aunt and me to take care of Grandma on our own, we moved her to a local nursing home. Grandma actually blossomed there. For one thing, her main nurse (CNA) was a young man from Bhutan! She loved him (once even hinting to me that if she were younger she would marry him). Yes, she even liked me better, though still did not really know me.
Three days before my grandmother died, a nurse phoned to tell us to "come quickly." Something had changed — grandma was alert, happy, and talking. For much of the time prior, she had been sinking farther and farther away.
When I got to the nursing home, grandma recognized me and told me she loved me. What a gift! Another gift: I got to sit next to her, holding her hand, when, three days later, she took her last breaths.
After she died, the Bhutanese and Nepalese members of the staff came quietly into her room, bowed a Namaste, and parted in peace. I crawled into the narrow bed and lay beside my dear abuelita (which was my nickname for her) just as I had when she was at home and awakened terrified that she was dying. Then, I lay next to her to comfort her; this night, I lay next to her to comfort me.
True to her nature, that of living outside of other's expectations, my grandmother insisted that her body be donated to science. I know that's a great thing to do, but it has always been hard for me. Even when I wasn't living with her, I always knew where she was. For once, I would no longer know. I hope she has been a helpful teacher, and I hope she rests somewhere in peace.
We did have a memorial service for Grandma. I spoke at the service and then played the song, "There's a Hero," because that's what Grandma was to me. The lyrics say, "There's amazing strength in a willing hand; there are victories that you never planned." Grandma was willing to take care of me when no one else would. And if I had one thing to say to Grandma's spirit, it would be what the song says, "Go on and trust yourself — you can ride the wind."

04 April 2010

"Branding Bhutan" — or the story of a "Trek through Time"

The 19 February issue of Science includes an article on Bhutan titled, "Improbable Partners Aim to Bring Biotechnology to Himalayan Kingdom" (v. 247, p. 940-941). Reading it over lunch the other day, I thought, "Hmmm... well, that's interesting." Then I read a subheading on page 941, "Branding Bhutan." "Wow," I thought, "we have come a long way since 1974." Is this good or bad? Or neither? Is it just the natural course of things in a country both protective of its borders and open to change?

Just a little over 35 years ago, in October 1974, National Geographic featured on its cover a picture of a new leader coming to power in Bhutan. The cover caption read, "With his great-great-grandfather's five-colored scarf on his shoulders, 18-year-old Jigme Singye Wangchuck formally becomes monarch in the tiny kingdom of Bhutan. John Scofield's picture story highlights the color and enduring traditions of the sequestered nation."

A dusty copy of this issue remains on the bookshelf in the living room of my grandmother's house, though she passed on in 2003, and my aunt lives there now. An avid Nat Geo reader, my grandmother, Lillie Asmus, felt something in her heart shift as she read the article and took in Scofield's pictures. She had to go there, no matter what it took.

But Bhutan was closed to tourism — until young Wangchuck realized the potential benefits of well-regulated tourism. In 1975, upon permission from the king, a small party brought together by an up-and-coming adventure tourism company, then called Mountain Travel and now known as Mountain Travel Sobek, was allowed to trek this 38,394 km2 country.

My grandma was a member of that first group of American tourists. At 65, she was the oldest, and probably the most determined. Still recovering from a stroke she'd suffered six years earlier, she walked with a limp, and she'd lost her ability to take hand-written notes. Fortuitously for me, she carried with her the whole time a tape recorder, and each night recorded notes and impressions about the trek. She played those tapes for me back in 1992, and we spent several hours going over the events that touched her the most. On 28 June 1992, the Boulder Daily Camera published our account of her adventure in an article titled, "Trek through Time" (p. 1C, 3C).

The trip had multiple highlights, but I think the most significant one was the presence of Tenzing Norgay as sirdar (guide). Tenzing, you may recall, was the Nepalese sherpa who, with Sir Edumund Hilary of England, became the first man to reach the top of Mount Everest in 1953. Quoting from my 1992 article, "In countries like Nepal and Bhutan, and even India, Tenzing (who guessed his age in 1975 to be about 61 by our calendar) was revered almost as a legend."

My grandmother said that she liked Tenzing "instantly" and still blushed years later when she told me that after she presented the sirdar with a pair of mittens (knit by my aunt), "He kissed me on my cheek and gave me a big hug."

The group began the official trek in Paro, northern Bhutan. The tiny guest houses quickly set up for tourists could not hold the entire group, so grandma volunteered to take a tent. This was mid-January, but, grandma recalled, it felt to her to be the right thing to do because "Tenzing did it too."

The group's trek continued to Tiger's Nest (Taktsang), the ancient Buddhist monastery perched on the edge of a narrow, grassy cliff. It's a rather treacherous trail up to Tiger's Nest, and not for the faint-of-heart. For safety, the group was required to take to horseback (which frightened my grandmother more than walking), but when the horses could go no further, they made the rest of the approach on foot, down so many steps my grandmother could not keep count, and finally up again, into the temple.

After several days in Bhutan, the group returned to India, trekking through Nepal and Sikkim (now a part of India).

I'll save my grandmother's time in Sikkim for another post, but I will tell you she met the last king of that country, and we still have the ceremonial prayer scarf she exchanged with him before tea. And I'll also save the next part of the story — the 80-mile trek along the Nepal-India border and the visit to Tenzing's home — for another time. Then there's grandma's trek in the Scottish Hebrides. Oh, and I must tell at some point the story of her honeymoon, bicycling through Europe in 1935.

But back to Bhutan, and the Science article.

Thimpu businessman Wangdi Jamyang has teamed up with a British mycologist (Nigel Hywel-Jones) to "Brand Bhutan." That is, according to the Science article by Richard Stone, they're "crafting a business model for biotech in the kingdom." You see, among its many natural riches, Bhutan is the home of a fungus (Cordyceps sinensis or "yartsa guenbub" in Bhutanese) "that fetches outrageous prices as a Chinese medicine." Wangdi wants to trump the poachers coming in across the border, ensure that the fungus is collected without violating the country's "Buddhist reverence for the environment" (which is one reason behind keeping the country closed to tourists for so long), and, of course, keep the profits in-country.

According to the article, the decision by Bhutan's leadership to allow collection of the fungus each June has "pulled many rural Bhutanese out of poverty," with earnings in that one month surpassing "a year's income from yak herding."

It's a good idea. As biotech adviser Hywel-Jones notes, "The best ideas come when you're in a forest." Long before Bhutan allowed western tourists into the country, it was known as "Lho Men Jong, or 'Southern Land of Medicinal Herbs.'" Bhutan's relatively pristine countryside is flush with fungi. Those fungi, managed in Bhutan's farsighted manner, could provide opportunities for advances in medicine as well as increased financial "happiness" for the country's citizens.

Grandma sold her trekking boots back in 1990. If I had those boots here now, I'd look them over quizzically, wondering if they'd ever trod upon the insect fungus that now might be leading Bhutan into a future delicately balanced between protecting its soils and reaping its environmental rewards.

If grandma were here, she'd clap her hands together, smile, bow, and send her best wishes across the seas to the country that so touched her life.